GEORGETOWN, Ky. (LEX 18) — With Thanksgiving less than two weeks away, turkey prices are squeezing holiday budgets across the country. But while some consumers search for ways to save, others are making splurging on premium birds part of their family tradition.
The American Farm Bureau Federation points to economic pressures and bird flu as key factors driving up costs. A Purdue University analysis found wholesale turkey prices are up about 75% from a year ago, with the university's model showing the average retail price of a turkey will be just over $2 per pound — 25% higher than last year. That means consumers will pay about $31 for a 15-pound bird.
At Elmood Stock Farm in Scott County, sixth-generation farmers are raising a breed of turkey that's barely domesticated but delivers a delicious centerpiece for Thanksgiving meals, and consumers are willing to pay.
Farmer Mac Stone has been raising and selling heritage turkeys for 18 years, helping to preserve breeds that were once on the brink of extinction.
"These breeds were in decline around the country — people weren't using them like they used to," Stone said. "The breed conservancy asked, 'Will you help us preserve these?' And we said, 'Well, if you let us eat them, we'll grow some.'"
The push to preserve heritage turkeys is fueled by agricultural heritage. Hunted by Native Americans and settlers in the 1700s, heritage turkeys were the original Thanksgiving bird. But over centuries, the breed fell out of favor as broad-breasted white turkeys — bred for rapid growth and mass production — took over the market.
Heritage varieties like the Narragansett nearly vanished in the 1990s until farms like Elmood brought them back.
"In fact, the customers here in Lexington — and we ship around the country — have actually been what brought these birds back out of decline," Stone said.
These premium birds come with a premium price tag — a holiday heritage turkey can cost up to $300 — but Stone says the flavor keeps them flying off the shelves.
"Once people started eating them, they said, 'Oh — these are special birds,'" Stone said. "The flavor is richer — kind of like swordfish versus catfish. It's a different eating experience."
The birds live differently too, raised organically and free-roaming on unfertilized pasture while being fed organic grain.
"A little piece of the earth is in better shape because of the way we do it," Stone said.
The current flock, which will be sold to consumers next Thanksgiving, seems to enjoy their lifestyle.
"They're out here, they flap, they're athletic — they run all over the field, then they laugh at you when you're talking about them," Stone said as the turkeys gobbled in the background.
From near extinction to Thanksgiving dinner tables, Elmood Stock Farm is preserving both taste and tradition.
"It's very rewarding and honoring to know how many family tables are centered around our turkeys," Stone said. "It's pretty special."
Consumers can buy heritage turkeys at Elmood's farm stand on their property in Georgetown or online. The farm also raises and sells organic broad-breasted turkeys.
